Saturday, June 09, 2012

Trieste (Italy) & Ljubljana (Slovenia)


Day 1
ICTP, the International Centre for Theoretical Physics is nestled, and for once this word is perfect, in a small wooded bay on the Adriatic coast. It’s an idyllic spot and this is the second time I’ve been invited to give a lecture here. The great thing about the audiences in this institution is that they come from all over the world. Over the two days I spoke to people from Peru, India, Bangladesh, Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt, Ukraine, Philippines, Palestine, Chile, Italy and Korea.
Trieste is tucked away round the north east corner of Italy down a finger of land on the Adriatic coast, so it feels cut-off from mainland Italy. It’s seen grander days, when part of the Hapsburg Empire, and the huge main square, railway station and architecture speak of better times. But it’s unmistakably Italian with more ice-cream parlours than anywhere else I’ve been. Seafood spaghetti and fish in the restaurant below the ICTP by the harbour. Taken out by the delightful Enrique, Marco and Carlo for a pizza along the coast. Carlo's a real gadget freak and was showing his bag of accessories for his iPhone - fisheye lens, sensors....various apps. The bus back was full of singing Italian teenagers - no aggro, just high spirits.
Day 2
All day at the conference but Gil managed a trip into Trieste and some shopping.  
Day 3
Before leaving for Ljubljana we had a walk, then coffee and cake in the grounds of the Miramare Castle. It’s a protected area and full of birds and butterflies but it’s the vista down to the sea and white castle that make it such a fantastic spot for a bit of relaxation.
The bus to Ljubljana climbed up to Opicina then down and across the wooded Slovenia to Ljubljana.
Ljubljana.
Now I’ve been to some attractive cities around the world but the cosy centre of Ljubljana takes some beating. It has a beautiful river that turns at a right angle through the centre, with several attractive bridges, flanked by cafes and restaurants, all sitting below a castle on a wooded slope. Above all, it has the intimate atmosphere, not of a busy city, but of a provincial town - relaxed. We had an al fresco meal in Marley & Me; Slovenian Wine, a Slovenian sausage dish (damn juicy), beef, chocolate and pear cake - superb. Then a walk along the river past the cafes, across the Dragon Bridge, Triple Bridge and beneath the willow trees. Sometimes a new place just makes you feel just dandy. This is such a place.
Day
Up the next morning for a stroll around the market and up the funicular to the castle. From the top of the Tower you can see that the city is surrounded by green, wooded hills, with much higher mountains beyond. The highlight was the Steve McCurry Photography Exhibition, set in an underground exhibition hall. His fantastic image of the Afghan girl with the red/green eyes is one of my favourite photographs. Her ragged clothes match the colour of her eyes and I’ve never seen a photographic portrait that is as good as the masterpieces of portraiture in paint. It’s up there with Vermeer and Rembrandt, a terrifyingly beautiful image. Other images that I remember include a long wall of portraits, a group of laughing Sadus, debating monks literally wrestling with each other (we’ve lost the art of debate in the West), shepherds in the Yemen.
This is a tiny country, with only 2 million people but this town is certainly not short of money. The roads were pristine, houses looked new, prices high and farms wealthy. Then again, it must be a net recipient of the Common Agricultural Policy and European money. I have no idea if it’s economically healthy or not but I have a feeling that the dozens of EU flags in front of the many municipal buildings suggest that chickens may be coming home and getting ready to roost.
A boat trip downriver followed by a pizza, Slovenian stew and beers on the riverside in the sun to the sound of a busking classical guitarist, was a pretty good way to spend a Wednesday. In the evening we had another stroll and ate at Julija, where we had an excellent Slovenian red wine, recommended by the waitress, gnocchi with pear and cheese and goulash, followed by a layered Slovenian cake, whose name escapes me, but I highly recommend.
One of the bridges had a fine art installation, just sheets of white linen that contained strings of white lights. You had to push through the ribbons of linen across the whole span of the bridge. It reminded me of the Gormley mist room at the Hayward some years back.
Our last day. So we strolled through the Tivoli Park, had a coffee in a Jazz Café (always worth doing in a new city). Before lunch we had a couple of Aperol Spitzer’s to whet our appetites then a walk round the side of the castle where there’s a street of small hotels and and the Spajza restaurant. We had an 11 euro lunch, in their beautiful garden, of fish in a lightly curried sauce, stuffed squid, liver, cinnamon parfait and coffee. Astoundingly good.
What a gem of a place. I’ll be back.

17 Comments:

At 8:35 AM, Blogger kalaiarasi p said...

Thanks for sharing ur information.............

If you are in need of bus rental, bus transfers, sightseeing tours or excursions by bus within Slovenia and other European countries, we are pleased to help you. Slovenia Bus Rental has many years of experience in bus rental, tours by bus and bus transfers. We aim at providing high quality bus, minibus and minivan rental service anywhere in Slovenia and Europe. In order to achieve the easiest possible communication between our clients and our staff, we employ experienced tourism professionals speaking English, German, Spanish, French, Croatian and disposing of excellent know-how in international coach rental as well as experienced local drivers from Slovenia with multiple language skills.

slovenia bus

 
At 7:04 AM, Blogger kalaiarasi p said...

Its very interesting...really inspired by seeing ur blogs .

Europe coaches Ljubljana is offering Ljubljana minibus rental, limousine service, Charter bus rental, affordable charter bus service

provider in Ljubljana.

coach ljubljana

 
At 12:10 PM, Blogger kalaiarasi p said...

Thanks for sharing ur information.its very informative

Europa Coaches Slovenia is an experienced company that provides transportation services in Slovenia and all around Europe. We offer professional bus services as also other transportation vehicles services.

coach slovenia

 
At 9:43 AM, Blogger slovenia said...

Thanks for sharing ur information.............

i have seen some other site which more interesting and more benifit one plse see the link which i shared here

slovenia

 
At 12:03 PM, Anonymous Family holiday Jesolo said...

Congrats for this interesting vacation! For sure, it was a good choice.

 
At 8:39 AM, Anonymous Ajay said...

Such a wonderful post. Keep up the good work.

Coach Rental and Bus Charter Services Grow in Popularity as More People Value Travel: http://www.europa-coaches-munich.com/

Bus Charter Services Munich

 
At 12:01 PM, Anonymous ljubljana said...

Thanks for your information....

Europe coaches Ljubljana offers you all kind of transportation services like Ljubljana minibus rental, charter bus rental, limousine service, airport transfers, affordable charter bus provider.

Europa Coaches Ljubljana

 
At 5:26 AM, Blogger Meiqing Xu said...

15.07.04daigege
fitflops outlet
snapback hats wholesale
kate spade handbags
nike tn pas cher
longchamp outlet
true religion jeans
oakley sunglasses
coach outlet
michael kors outlet online
michael kors handbag
coach outlet
michael kors
kate spade bags
michael kors bags
ray ban sunglasses
hollister clothing
gucci outlet
rolex watches
coach outlet online
louboutin pas cher
polo ralph lauren
ralph lauren outlet
toms shoes
oakley sunglasses wholesale
mcm handbags
jordan pas cher
replica watches
soccer jerseys wholesale
oakley sunglasses outlet
snabacks wholesale
gucci outlet online
air max 90
longchamp soldes
chanel bags
ray ban sunglasses

 
At 3:11 AM, Blogger Xiaozhengm 520 said...

2015-10-9 xiaozhengm
michael kors bags
hollister uk sale
uggs on sale
michael kors handbags
cheap ugg boots
canada goose jackets
Christian Louboutin Outlet Authentic Sneakers Online
Kobe Basketball Shoes For Sale
Louis Vuitton Neverfull GM Monogram
Hollister Shirts For Women
hollister
louis vuitton handbags
coach factory outlet
Abercrombie & Fitch Kids Clothing
UK Louis Vuitton Handbag Outlet
canada goose outlet
true religion jeans
coach factory outlet
Coach Outlet Official Website
canada goose outlet usa
Louis Vuitton Bags On Sale Cheap
ugg boots sale
hermes bags
Michael Kors Outlet Online USA Stores
ugg boots
Coach Outlet Store Online Official Website
canada goose jackets
oakley sunglasses,oakley vault,prescription sunglasses,polarized sunglasses,aviator sunglasses,spy sunglasses,oakleys,oakley canada,cheap oakley sunglasses,oakley frogskins,oakley holbrook,cheap sunglasses,wayfarer sunglasses,oakley standard issue,fake oakleys,oakley glasses,oakley.com,oakley prescription glasses,oakley goggles,sunglasses for men,oakley gascan,oakley store,oakleys sunglasses
ugg sale
michael kors outlet
michael kors outlet online
Abercrombie Short T-Shirts
nike trainers

 
At 7:25 AM, Blogger John Lucas said...

Very nice post…Thanks for sharing..!

Hire a coach, bus, minibus or van that will satisfy your customer’s needs. Share your great journey with Faniani Coaches and hire a bus to take you on a sightseeing tour to the desired location.
Faniani Coaches

 
At 1:03 AM, Blogger ninest123 said...

ninest123 16.02
coach purses, louboutin, converse pas cher, north face, replica handbags, longchamp, abercrombie and fitch, timberland, nike huaraches, true religion jeans, longchamp, vans pas cher, true religion outlet, sac burberry, polo ralph lauren, nike free pas cher, hogan outlet, air max, ray ban pas cher, michael kors, new balance pas cher, nike trainers, sac longchamp pas cher, michael kors uk, nike blazer, hollister, ray ban sunglasses, true religion outlet, nike tn, lululemon outlet online, nike free, true religion jeans, air max, michael kors pas cher, nike air max, mulberry, hollister, ralph lauren, nike roshe, nike air force, oakley pas cher, sac guess, coach outlet store online, air jordan, sac hermes, vanessa bruno, air max pas cher, michael kors outlet, polo lacoste, north face, nike roshe run pas cher

 
At 1:06 AM, Blogger ninest123 said...

gucci outlet, cheap uggs, cheap oakley sunglasses, michael kors outlet, chanel handbags, oakley sunglasses, longchamp handbags, ray ban sunglasses, prada outlet, louis vuitton outlet, louboutin shoes, burberry outlet, louboutin, nike shoes, oakley sunglasses, louis vuitton, louboutin outlet, polo ralph lauren, uggs, louis vuitton outlet stores, louis vuitton handbags, michael kors outlet, oakley sunglasses, air max, prada handbags, longchamp outlet, michael kors outlet, burberry outlet, louis vuitton outlet, oakley sunglasses cheap, ugg boots clearance, longchamp handbags, tory burch outlet, christian louboutin, polo ralph lauren outlet, uggs outlet, tiffany and co, ugg outlet, nike free, michael kors outlet, michael kors outlet, ray ban sunglasses, air max, ray ban sunglasses, rolex watches, michael kors outlet online sale, jordan shoes, replica watches, tiffany and co

 
At 1:08 AM, Blogger ninest123 said...

vans, valentino shoes, nike roshe run, jimmy choo outlet, bottega veneta, iphone 6s plus cases, iphone 6 plus cases, oakley, vans shoes, converse, nfl jerseys, lululemon outlet, giuseppe zanotti, iphone 5s cases, iphone 6s cases, mont blanc, mcm handbags, air max, wedding dresses, birkin bag, north face jackets, north face outlet, beats by dre, timberland boots, mac cosmetics, air max, louboutin, ferragamo shoes, ghd, s6 case, soccer jerseys, hollister clothing store, insanity workout, p90x, babyliss pro, abercrombie, iphone cases, reebok outlet, asics running shoes, chi flat iron, new balance shoes, abercrombie and fitch, ray ban, ipad cases, instyler, gucci, iphone 6 cases, baseball bats, herve leger, soccer shoes, ralph lauren, celine handbags

 
At 1:11 AM, Blogger ninest123 said...

links of london, karen millen, canada goose, moncler, louis vuitton, canada goose, ugg pas cher, moncler, ugg boots, sac lancel, sac louis vuitton, moncler, juicy couture outlet, juicy couture, canada goose, canada goose, moncler, swarovski crystal, ugg, canada goose uk, canada goose jackets, hollister, doke gabbana, pandora charms, louis vuitton, barbour, supra shoes, canada goose, pandora jewelry, ugg, swarovski, thomas sabo, wedding dresses, canada goose outlet, toms shoes, moncler outlet, converse shoes, pandora charms, rolex watches, pandora jewelry, moncler, louis vuitton uk, barbour, marc jacobs, montre homme, moncler, ugg, moncler, sac louis vuitton, coach outlet store online
ninest123 16.02

 
At 11:29 PM, Blogger fattoma said...

https://decor-ksa.com/doors-gallery/
https://decor-ksa.com/windows-gallery/
https://decor-ksa.com/railings-staircase-gallery/

 
At 2:01 PM, Blogger Mie Helal said...

I simply want to give you a big thumbs up for your excellent info you've got right here on this post


https://decor-ksa.com/villas-homes-window/
https://decor-ksa.com/windows-iron/



 
At 7:21 AM, Blogger raybanoutlet001 said...

ugg boots
michael kors handbags outlet
christian louboutin shoes
hermes belts
fitflops
oakley sunglasses
michael kors uk
ralph lauren
nike outlet
nike roshe
2017.8.21

 

Post a Comment

<< Home